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The expeditions we have carried out in North America include:

The Muldrow Glacier, Mount McKinley
The Muldrow Glacier, Mount McKinley

Denali / Mount McKinley

Mount McKinley
Mount McKinley (Denali) from the north

Location: Alaska

Height: 6195 meters (20,320 feet) Highest peak in North America.

Difficulty: NZ alpine grade 2 but expedition height, isolation and cold prevail.

Length of Trip: ??

Cost: US$3100 (as of May 1998)

This is a difficult expedition and even a season of good weather sees only 50 - 60% of parties summitting.

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Mount Robson

Location: Bristish Columbia, Canada

Height: 3954 meters (12,973 feet)

Difficulty: NZ alpine grade 3+ / 4

Length of Trip: 3 days

Cost: US$1600 (as of August 1999)

From a meeting in Jasper, we drive then walk into a bush camp at 2000 meters (6600 feet). Big packs can be helicoptered to this point. Next, over glacial debris and bare ice and up into the serious Robson icefall to reach the base of the Cain face. Possibly a rest and acclimatisation day here before the steep face and ridge summit. From high camp out to Jasper in one long day.

Mt Robson
North Face shadowed to the right. Cain, or
standard route, left up snow face.

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Mount Logan

Location: Yukon Territory, Wrangell/St. Elias mountains.

Height: 5970 meters (11,600 feet)

Difficulty: Standard route - NZ alpine grade 2; East Ridge - NZ alpine grade 3 but expedition conditions of cold, height and isolation apply.

Length of Trip: Three weeks

Cost: US$4000 (as of August 1999)

The standard route begins with
a ski plane drop at 2500 meters. From here, several days is spent moving camps up to King Col at 3500 meters. Prospector Pass, at 5000 meters, gives acess to the summit Plateau and a long traverse to the summit (5970 meters.)

The East Ridge route is a steep climb with fixed rope used in two or three places.

Where as the King Col (standard) route can be attempted by a group, East Ridge is guided 1 to 1, or 1 to 2.


The Sella Glacier, Mount Logan

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North America: Denali / Mount MacKinley | Mount Robson | Mount Logan
Mountain Portfolio: New Zealand | Asia | North America | South America | Europe
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© High Country Expeditions 2001